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08-02-2008, 09:17 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 314
Points: 0 | BioDiesel: Finally Made a Batch I finally got around to putting it all together and making a 2 gallon batch of BioDiesel. A buddy of mine donated some Peanut oil from his turkey fryer, once used, so I had fairly clean oil, considering it was used.
My prcoessor is built from a 30 lb. propane tank and looks like a hillbilly version of Sputnik. ( I'll upload a pic or two if anyone is interested.)
It's designed as a 5 gallon machine, (yields 5 gallons of finished biodiesel).
Without getting into the gory details, I learned a few things and have a much better feel for the chemical process. You can screw it up, but you can also reverse all but the very very worst situations. My real foul-up was being in a hurry, so, I ended up losing the time i had saved by having to do additional wash cycles. All in all it went OK and I learned from it.
Result: I had about 5 gallons of petro-diesel in the Kubota. Added a quart of the biodiesel. No joke, I noticed the difference after about 2 to 3 minutes of run time! Engine sounds smoother. No more of that unburned hydro-carbon smell either! The exhaust is noticeably cleaner as it exits.
So i added another quart! 
Another 5 mins of run time and started to smell the peanut oil smell.
When I pulled in the garage and shut down, no longer detected that normal lingering diesel exhaust smell.
From what I have been reading, the newer Low Sulpher diesel doesn't have as much lubricity as the old style diesel. I think of it sorta like back when we had Lead in Gasoline. I hear truckers like to run 2% Biodiesel to restore the lubricity back into the commercial Petro-fuel. Biodiesel is a crazy lubricant! It lubricates injectors and internals. The engines run smoother due to less friction.
I just read that a guy is using it in his 2-stroke Dirtbike mix and it's working great. Who wouldda thought?
I'm going to get a clean new oiler can and keep some Biodiesel on the shelf with the other sprays. Biodiesel is also a powerful solvent, it will eat rubber and will clean and degrease as good or better than sotre bought products. Older fuel systems will clog filters eventually, due to the petro-scum layer from inside the fuel tank breaking up, and flowing forward to the filter Easy fix, keep a spare filter or two and change them until the solvent action has cleaned the fuel system. On real old systems that may have rubber fuel hoses, they will have to be replaced.
I cannot swear to this, because I didn't run for an extended period under load, but I may be running slightly cooler, based on my temp guage.
I plan to mow the lawn later this afternoon, that may tell the tale.
So far so good. I have been puttering around with this batch to get the feel for the whole process, the next batch will be a full 5 gallons and should take considerably less time avoiding some of the trial and error, having to find another bucket, get a funnel, get this, get that, etc.
I'm now running approx. a 10% mix of Biodiesel and all systems are go.
Less noxious exhaust, no power loss, smoother engine sound and possibly cooler running engine. What's not to like?
I'll run the 10% mix for this tankful and then bump up to a 20% mix next tank full, and so on.
Attention Middle East Oil Producers and Big Oil: UP YOURS!!!
PS: I'm not really concerned with what the manufacturers recommend or don't. They don't give any substantial or technical reason why they only approve a 2% , 5% or 10% mix. What they have been doing is raising the % amount they are comfortable with , over time.
Mostly they are just covering their butts, listening to their lawyers. Truth of the matter is this, if you get bad commercial pump fuel and it causes engine damage, they are going to determine that and deny coverage anyway. | Kubota BX2350 and more attachments than I have sense to operate. | |
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08-02-2008, 09:46 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Status: Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 455
Points: 0 | Very COOL!
Of course we want to see pictures!
My hardly used F250 is about on empty, so let me know when I can stop by and fill it up  | John Deere 4110HST
FEL, MMM, FEL Forks (homemade),I-Match, Ballast Box, #380 plow (modified to fit) Markham LD-48 Grapple, and lots of other STUFF. | |
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08-02-2008, 10:05 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Status:
Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: NW NJ
Posts: 860
Points: 0 | We'll have to get him going full production  if were gonna get the distribution to the northeast that we'll need.  Let's see...me in NJ...Duc in NY... Dougie...Paul...Jay  | JD 2520 w/46bh, 200cx loader, meyers 6ft plow
jd 425 w/54"mmm& 54"plow | |
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08-02-2008, 12:56 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 314
Points: 0 | Just came back in from the shop, it rained again, I'll never get the lawn mowed today!
Hey Gunmaker, wonder how much it costs to ship a full plastic Carwash Barrel of it to Northern Jersey??
Finished up the entire batch.....mixed the rest into my 15 gal. Blitz fuel station with whatever diesel was in there, it's pretty close to full.
Ready for the next batch! Actually need some more WVO and some methanol.
Processor: Heats the WVO using a 110v hot water heating element, threaded into bottom Tee fitting. The pump recirculates during the reaction to throughly mix the concoction.
Sample of the results: Clean, clear, ready to burn.  | Kubota BX2350 and more attachments than I have sense to operate. | |
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08-04-2008, 02:36 PM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kitsap County, WA
Posts: 471
Points: 0 | That's awesome. Roughly how much time do you think went into getting set up? I think I may have a source for used oil... | ___________________________ Cub Cadet Yanmar EX3200, CL300 Loader w/ Rankin toothbar, Land Pride bucket forks, CB75 Backhoe w/ mechanical thumb, Woods LR72 Landscape Rake, Rankin RC20-72 rotary cutter. | |
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08-04-2008, 02:57 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Site Ogre & Admin
Status:
Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 2,234
Points: 69 | Im so into this  thank you so much and sharing with us! this is very important, and a great way to learn. Cant thank you enough!
Keep the info going - lots to be a ton of work but with great payoff
say whats needed to produce enough for lets say home heating tanks of 275 & 550 gallons?
Every resturant around here are reporting theft of grease from their recyling bins. The jig is up with them and now they want top dollar | Kubota L39 w/WR long RGB Grapple, Bradco Pallet forks, BH QA buckets, and more! JD 2520, 210Cx, 46BH, 60" Box Blade-Mid West, 52" Mid West aerator, 52" first choice Tiller, 5' Fontier blade, 42" pallet forks, Green MFG PHD, Mid West York Rake w/guage wheels, Cub 3204 with Blower & Simms Cab, Mowers (44",48",50"),Ford 2006 F550 turbo diesel 4x4 w/11' mason dump, 16' 10k Doolittle trailer, Southwestern enclosed trailer, Wright Stander RH 52", Better Outdoor Product Quick 32" mower! | |
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08-05-2008, 09:39 AM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 314
Points: 0 | Economically speaking, it's not going to work if they charge for waste grease!
Don't PAY for it, it only encourages them! They must pay to have it taken away, by taking it off their hands they are making money already.
it's like someone saying "they stole my trash!" Wait a minute? You pay for people to come get it, someone took it for free, and they "stole it"? Greed factor kicks in.
The fact that they can save a few hundred dollars a month on removal should be good enough for them. If they are greedy, let them pay for removal for a while longer. That's my rant.
OK, Let's back-up for a moment. You will read that you must start small and work your way up. I now have to agree with what they are saying. You cannot start out making 20 gallon batches, or even 10 gallons. Start small, a few liters, refine your process and the Scale Up. I am Scaling up now to the full capacity of my processor which I designed for 5 gallon batches of finished fuel. After that, I have to build a bigger processor.
I think I will make [10] 5 gallon batches to hone my knowledge/skill/process, then think about how BIG I need to go. Or, just do double batches, one right after the other?
As far as time spent, 50% , maybe more, of your time is going to be researching and learning. The more you do, the better. You don't know it, but when you actually start making batches you will be glad you read as much information as was available.
To actually build a processor? If you have basic plumbing and mechaincal skills and all the parts, you can do it in a single weekend. it takes longer to reserach and come up with a design you are happy with.
You need to be able to Heat, Mix, Settle, Wash and Dry, Filter and Store.
It can be a hands on affair, or if you are willing to dedicate the space for numerous tanks and vessels and some pumps and plumbing you can make it more automated.
It can also be messy.
You guys with small businesses, a diesel truck, and diesel equipment would have to scale up to your weekly usage, that may mean 40 to 50 gallons per week? Maybe more?
Are you going to work all week, then spend your weekend and evenings making fuel?
Home heating fuel would be the next step, after supplying a vehicle's needs. Because you need to be able to make a lot. But at least you don't need to make it all at once. The problems arise with the fact that Biodiesel might eat your pump seals in the burner. I have a Becket AFG burner, only 5 years old. They cannot support use of biodiesel due to their pump seals. So now you are looknig at rebuilding your pump or buying one that is rated for BioD.
Also, do you have an above ground tank? Biodiesel gels at a higher temp than #2 heating oil. if your tank is in the basement/cellar, you are probably OK. If your tank is buried you might be OK, but, if your lines are within a foot of the surface where they enter the house, , like mine, that could become problematic depending on how far down the ground freezes.
I was actually thinking of an auxillary tank (55 gal) in the basement? Not sure.
Have to solve the pump issue first, or learn more about it. You will also have to adjust pump pressure, nozzle size and air adjust, so switching back n forth can also be problematic.
It can be done, people are doing it, but know it's not like flipping a switch.
I'm not gonig to sit here and tell you it's "Easy" or "Go for it".
It depends how much your heart is in it, how tenacious you are, how much spare time you have and how much space you have.
Above all, you have to do your homework.
Read this site: Biodiesel: Journey to Forever
if you want to follow a good "no nonsense" process, that is balanced with common sense and technical knowledge, i recommend Mike Pelly's process: Biodiesel recipe from Mike Pelly: Journey to Forever
It's the process I used and it works.
My suggestion: Make a 1 liter batch out of store bought oil. The supplies easily procured.
Understand the process, then go from there. | Kubota BX2350 and more attachments than I have sense to operate. | |
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11-23-2008, 10:03 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 314
Points: 0 | Hi guys, just getting back to psoting on the forum, I have been busy busy busy.
On the BioDiesel front I was running 25% BioD for the past couple of months, worked great.
Lately, I haven't gotten any methanol or waste oil, and with prices lower I'm back to 100% Dino-diesel.
I SMELL the difference. Even using 25% BioD, when I pulled into the garage or workshop and shutdown, I didn't get that putrid Diesel exhaust smell. Now, back on 100% pump diesel, it's back. Most of us have smelled it for so long we are accustomed to it, but, get away from it for a while and you really notice it. | Kubota BX2350 and more attachments than I have sense to operate. | |
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