Custom plow for 2000 series - Machine Underground -Tractor & Commercial Equipment Discussion Forum

**gunmaker** · 11-24-2007, 12:45 AM

As most of us know, JD limits the size of our plow blade to 54". As you've seen, I have adapted a Meyers 6ft plow blade to the JD quick-hitch hydraulic system. Thus a much more effective plowing system, with no modifications to the JD factory set-up.
If anyone is interested in doing this themselves, I would be happy to help with the tech work through the forum. If your close enough I could lend a hand in person. Craig

**JDFANATIC** · 11-24-2007, 10:24 AM

Well, I have a blower for my tractor, but would still be interested in seeing a series on this.

**Ducati996** · 11-24-2007, 11:03 AM

the tribe has spoken! Its a sticky now so all can follow/reference it once Gunmaker add's the pictures

**gunmaker** · 11-24-2007, 11:11 AM

JD, already having a blower you're halfway there. The Quick-hitch for your blower is the same for my plow. All you have to do is look around for an old plow...6 or 6 1/2 ft, a short list of materials to fab, and you're in business. I'll start posting the project how-to WITH PICS, later today!

**JDFANATIC** · 11-24-2007, 12:15 PM

Great! Looking forward to your post & pics.

**gunmaker** · 11-24-2007, 09:17 PM

Adapting a commercial snow plow to function as a John Deere Quick-Hitch implement.
This project is intended to be used on John Deere 2000 series tractors, utilizing the John Deere Quick-Hitch and 4-way hydraulics.

Materials list:
1. Any commercial snowplow, 6 or 6 1/2 ft in length. I used a Meyers.
2. A 12" by 20" piece of 1/4" plate steel, and a 4 ft length of 5/8" steel rod. I used 1095 steel in both instances.

Preparation:
1. Refurbish plow and cutting edge as you wish. Remove the A-Frame from the plow, it will not be re-used. Remove the pivot bow from the plow, save pivot pins and retaining pins for future use. Clean the bow thoroughly of all rust, in preparation for welding.
2. Layout on the 1/4" plate steel the following parts, cut and deburr. Make sure the layout and cutting is square.
2 pieces 4 1/8" x 11"
1 piece 3 3/4" x 15 13/16"
2 pieces 4" x 6"
3. Cut one-- 20" length of 5/8 steel bar.
4. Layout and drill (2 )- 5/8" holes in the (2) - 4 1/8" x 11" as follows:
Set the 2 plates to be drilled in front of you so that they both are 4 1/8" wide and 11" tall. Mark the left hand verticle edge 'front' on both pieces.
From the left hand edge ('front') measure and scribe a line from top to bottom on both plates that is 2 5/8" from the front edge.
From the top edge of both pieces, measure and scribe a line 1 15/16" down from the top.
From the intersection where the two lines meet, measure and scribe a mark 7" down from that point of intersection with the 2 5/8" line.
You should now have two identical plates, marked with two intersecting points, one above the other, 7" on center.
5. Drill the (4) 5/8" holes at the points layed out. Two holes in each piece. The finished products should be identical.
6. Set up the tractor with the Quick hitch installed. Make sure the plane of the blade is perfectly perpendicular to the long axis of the tractor. (like you were plowing straight) Raise the hitch straight up so that the (2), bottom, L-shaped spring pins are centered 5 1/2" off the floor for the 2520. For other 2000 series models, check this dimension to assure that this dimension gives you adequate travel up and down. ( I estimate approx 1/3 of travel distance down, and 2/3 of travel distance up from this point.)
7. Run the 5/8" rod through the top hole of the two identical pieces, with the front edge facing the plow blade. Place the rod into the two top hooks on the quick-hitch, with the two identical pieces on the inside of the quick-hitch. Insert the two bottom L-pins into the lower holes of the plates, and make sure the top rod is centered.
8. Draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to the front edge) 6 3/4" down from the top edge on the inside of both identical vertical plates.
9. Put the 3 3/4" x 15 13/16" plate in between the two vertical plates which you just put in the quick-hitch. Tack weld it flush with the front edge of the vertical plates, with the top at the 6 3/4" line. (It should form the horizontal in an 'H') Make sure that the two vertical plates are held inward to the horizontal plate, so that you will have side clearance for mounting and dis-mounting the plow. Make sure the vertical plates are squarely perpendicular to the horizontal plate.

At this point you should have an 'H' mounted in your quick-hitch.

Next, slide your plow with the pivot bow installed to the quick-hitch. Push the bow into the 'H' until the bow contacts both verticals of the 'H'. Allow the bottom of the bow to rest on the top of the horizontal plate in the 'H'. Make sure that the plane of the plow blade is perpendicuar to the long axis of the tractor. The pivot bow will be welded into this position, so take a moment to make sure everything is square or perpendicular as the case may be, and that the plow appears to be set to correctly cut into and curl the snow away. Once sure that all is correct, tack weld the pivot bow to the horizontal plate in the 'H'. Remove the plow blade from the pivot bow.
Remove your new adapter from the quick-hitch.
Set the adapter with the front edge down, so that you are looking at the back of the adapter.
Take the two 4"wide x 6"high plates and place them centered on the horizontal plate, and pushed outward to contact the vertical plates of the 'H'. Tack weld the 4" x 6" plates to the back of the adapter. (both vertical and hortizontal plates)
Take the 28", 5/8" steel rod, and bend it into a 'V', with the two ends approx 12" to 14" apart. Cut the 'V ' to fit from the center of the pivot bow, to the upper horizontal 5/8" steel bar. It should be symmetrical and centered. Tack weld this to the center of the pivot bow, and centered on the upper 5/8" steel rod.

Your adapter should now be one solid unit, make sure that it fits correctly into the quick-hitch. Temporarily re-mount it to the plow, then to the quick-hitch, making sure that all of your clearances are adequate, everything is square and symmetrical, test the function hydraulically.
Remove the plow from the tractor, and the adapter from the plow.
Once you are sure of the fit and function of the adapter, weld all points of contact of all the pieces.
Clean, deburr and finish the adapter as suits your needs. Mount the adapter onto the plow, and attach the springs and plow feet.
Await the next snowstorm.

My installation gives me approx 30 degrees left and right angling, and will lift the plow approx 15" off the ground. This plow set-up will weigh approx 125 to 175 lbs more than the stock JD set-up

I've attached several photos, which I hope will serve to enhance one's understanding of this project.
I've found this set-up to be durable, and used it in a variety of conditions. Craig

**JDFANATIC** · 11-25-2007, 09:12 AM

gunmaker,

Wow! Nice fab work.

Thanks for the BOM and pics. I'll bet that set up can move some serious snow. Do you use chains, or just 4WD?

**gunmaker** · 11-25-2007, 10:43 AM

I plow using 4WD. Last season I didn't even use any rear ballast, but this year I still have the bh on. Throws snow great, especially going full speed in high range!

SkunkWerX · 12-08-2007, 08:32 PM

Nice set up, I think Deere makes the nicest (easiest to use) front hitch systems.

I'm using the prior front hitch (predecessor to the new Quick Hitch) , like what was on the 318 Garden tractors, and such, it works great.

I don't know if we will ever see it, but it would be nice if the manufacturers would settle on a universal Front Mount system, just as they do on the CAT 1&2 3PHs.