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04-18-2008, 10:39 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 2,063
Points: 0 | Trailer Upgrading: The Good News & The Bad News Among my travels this week, I stopped at two (of three) local manufacturers of equipment trailers to find out what it would cost to have my 10K equipment trailer upgraded and re-stickered so it could be registered as an 11K or 12K trailer. The CDL issue aside, if I don't do something I will have to run at least 5% overweight on my 10K trailer with the new mini-ex and... given my historical "luck" with the men in blue... you know I will get nailed to the cross.
The good news: Because my trailer was built identical to its manufacturer's 12K trailer with the exception of wheels, tires, bearings and coupler... and because I had previously upgraded to 12K wheels and 14K tires... the sole cost would be for new bearings and a coupler replacement. My entire upgrade cost (professionally done) would be under $500.00.
The bad news: No one other than the original manufacturer (in GA) is willing to re-sticker it.  This means a long and complicated process to register my trailer as a "home-built" dealing with calculations, documentation, inspection(s), fees, my good friends the state police... and the thing I have least of: time.
So where to go with this? I don't know yet. I still have one local manufacturer to contact. Need to talk to my insurance agent as well.
One manufacturer offered to help me sell my 10K trailer ( consignment right on their lot) if I buy one of their 12K or 14K trailers. It might end up being the cheapest and fastest way out of this unfortunate jam.
Dougster  | | | |
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04-18-2008, 11:06 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status:
Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Ma/Ct state lines
Posts: 185
Points: 0 | Westview tractor offered me a great deal last month that I couldn't follow through on. He offered me 4200 for my Bri-Mar 18 ft 12,000gvw trailer and give him 1400.00 and I could have got a 20 ft 14K gvw trailer. | "this morning I woke up with nothing to do, it is now afternoon and I have over half of it done".
Digging in hard clay is more relaxing to a worm than going fishing.. | |
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04-18-2008, 11:25 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 2,063
Points: 0 | Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryRB Westview tractor offered me a great deal last month that I couldn't follow through on. He offered me 4200 for my Bri-Mar 18 ft 12,000gvw trailer and give him 1400.00 and I could have got a 20 ft 14K gvw trailer. | Sounds good if the 14K was brand new! I know you've been wanting a longer length for the new bush-hog. 14K would also allow you to haul a 10K "midi" -excavator if you ever needed to rent one.
I think I'm gonna pull the bearings and have a look. They've got me wondering if the 12K bearings are in there already. A new coupler would also be nice 'cause I could go to height adjustable and even go pintle if I wanted to (the dump trailer is already height adjustable/switchable). Since I only haul locally and switch trailers a lot, it would sure speed things up for me.
Of course, none of that does anything to make me any more legal in the eyes of the law.
Dougster  | | | |
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04-18-2008, 01:07 PM
|
#4 (permalink)
| | Site Ogre & Admin
Status: Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 2,181
Points: 69 | Im in the same boat - I got a 16ft Doolittle 10k (built for 12k), and I need to go longer. Either a 18ft or 21ft so I can fit a L39 or something on it.
So Im dumping my 16ft real soon - its maybe 3 years old?
My sticker on my dump truck is at 19k which Im thinking getting lowered as well....
Or I just go for the CDL - yeah screw that  | New to the Fold: Kubota L39 w/grapple, pallet forks, BH QA buckets, and more! JD 2520, 210Cx, 46BH, 60" Box Blade-Mid West, 52" Mid West aerator, 52" first choice Tiller, 5' Fontier blade, 42" pallet forks, Green MFG PHD, Mid West York Rake w/guage wheels, Cub 3204 with Blower & Simms Cab, Mowers (44",48",50"),Ford 2006 F550 turbo diesel 4x4 w/11' mason dump, 16' 10k Doolittle trailer, Southwestern enclosed trailer, Wright Stander RH 52", Better Outdoor Product Quick 32" WB mower, and more !! | |
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04-18-2008, 01:34 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 2,063
Points: 0 | Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati996 Im in the same boat - I got a 16ft Doolittle 10k (built for 12k), and I need to go longer. Either a 18ft or 21ft so I can fit a L39 or something on it.
So Im dumping my 16ft real soon - its maybe 3 years old?
My sticker on my dump truck is at 19k which Im thinking getting lowered as well....
Or I just go for the CDL - yeah screw that  | Two things to consider Duc:
1) You are okay on weight with the L39 on a 10K trailer provided you don't load the tires or try to mount an M59 backhoe on it!  and,
2) Beware as you go longer in a 10K or any other trailer. That dang extra length adds weight and might even require additional reinforcement below (adding even more weight) thus reducing your net payload. I should have thought of this more when I was buying. As an example, if my 20-ft 10K were 16' long instead of 20' long, the VIO35-3 would be legal on it. But at 20', the extra length and its weight croak me on the VIO35-3 and almost croak me on the 4110/509 as well..
Upgrading the wheels and tires (if necessary) will also add to your scaled weight and thereby reduce your payload.
Dougster  | | | |
| |
04-18-2008, 02:16 PM
|
#6 (permalink)
| | Rara Avis
Status: Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Vermont
Posts: 1,899
Points: 0 | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougster Among my travels this week, I stopped at two (of three) local manufacturers of equipment trailers to find out what it would cost to have my 10K equipment trailer upgraded and re-stickered so it could be registered as an 11K or 12K trailer. The CDL issue aside, if I don't do something I will have to run at least 5% overweight on my 10K trailer with the new mini-ex and... given my historical "luck" with the men in blue... you know I will get nailed to the cross.
The good news: Because my trailer was built identical to its manufacturer's 12K trailer with the exception of wheels, tires, bearings and coupler... and because I had previously upgraded to 12K wheels and 14K tires... the sole cost would be for new bearings and a coupler replacement. My entire upgrade cost (professionally done) would be under $500.00.
The bad news: No one other than the original manufacturer (in GA) is willing to re-sticker it.  This means a long and complicated process to register my trailer as a "home-built" dealing with calculations, documentation, inspection(s), fees, my good friends the state police... and the thing I have least of: time.
So where to go with this? I don't know yet. I still have one local manufacturer to contact. Need to talk to my insurance agent as well.
One manufacturer offered to help me sell my 10K trailer ( consignment right on their lot) if I buy one of their 12K or 14K trailers. It might end up being the cheapest and fastest way out of this unfortunate jam.
Dougster  | One option is...After the local boys do their $500 effort...is to go to DMV and say that you made an error upon original registration...
Second option is...You mail a request to the GA boys for a new document to reflect your wheels, bearings and coupler changes...have the local outfit send upgrade documentation and prepare to pay an administration service fee...  (Just out of curiosity...you did NOT need NEW AXLES??)
Third option is scrap the plate off the trailer...an accident of course...  ...and then try a variation of option 2...
Just how much effort is there to do the home brew route? | Paul in VT
I used to own an ant farm but had to give it up. I couldn't find tractors small enough to fit it.
-- Steven Wright | |
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04-18-2008, 02:36 PM
|
#7 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 2,063
Points: 0 | Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulChristenson One option is...After the local boys do their $500 effort...is to go to DMV and say that you made an error upon original registration...
Second option is...You mail a request to the GA boys for a new document to reflect your wheels, bearings and coupler changes...have the local outfit send upgrade documentation and prepare to pay an administration service fee...  (Just out of curiosity...you did NOT need NEW AXLES??)
Third option is scrap the plate off the trailer...an accident of course...  ...and then try a variation of option 2...
Just how much effort is there to do the home brew route? | Like everything else in life Paul... it all boils down to liability. No one wants to accept responsibility for someone else's trailer or upgrades.
Believe it or not Paul, the trailer folks said there is no difference between a 5,200 lb axle and a 6,000 lb axle except for the bearings used. And I'm sure they would have wanted to sell me new 6,000 lb axles if there had been any difference whatsoever... even in paint thickness!
Still investigating exactly what hoops the state would make me jump through. I know about other states (some of which actually have a published form and/or process), but not Taxachusetts. The good news is that I am a mechanical engineer and can give them all the specs, drawings, materials info and stress calculations they could possibly desire. The bad news is that if it puts me back 1-2 months, I am screwed.
I plan to check this out next week in person at the state police traffic enforcement office at the barracks in Concord... after I talk with the insurance and registry folks first. Calling or sending an email to the state cops is totally useless.
Dougster  | | | |
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04-18-2008, 03:06 PM
|
#8 (permalink)
| | Moderator
Status: Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Longmont CO
Posts: 410
Points: 0 | Trade it in, get a bigger/longer one (used or new, not much difference unless it's totally beat up) and move on.
too much time already spent on it. | Brian H
Longmont CO
Pasture Maintenance
NH TN75DA, NH TC45D,
06 Chevy Duramax 2500HD
03 Freightliner Columbia MBE 460 | |
| |
04-18-2008, 04:40 PM
|
#9 (permalink)
| | Site Ogre & Admin
Status: Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 2,181
Points: 69 | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougster Two things to consider Duc:
1) You are okay on weight with the L39 on a 10K trailer provided you don't load the tires or try to mount an M59 backhoe on it!  and,
2) Beware as you go longer in a 10K or any other trailer. That dang extra length adds weight and might even require additional reinforcement below (adding even more weight) thus reducing your net payload. I should have thought of this more when I was buying. As an example, if my 20-ft 10K were 16' long instead of 20' long, the VIO35-3 would be legal on it. But at 20', the extra length and its weight croak me on the VIO35-3 and almost croak me on the 4110/509 as well..
Upgrading the wheels and tires (if necessary) will also add to your scaled weight and thereby reduce your payload.
Dougster  | Good advice but it would appear the 16ft trailer is too short for a L39.
I will figure it out eventually  | New to the Fold: Kubota L39 w/grapple, pallet forks, BH QA buckets, and more! JD 2520, 210Cx, 46BH, 60" Box Blade-Mid West, 52" Mid West aerator, 52" first choice Tiller, 5' Fontier blade, 42" pallet forks, Green MFG PHD, Mid West York Rake w/guage wheels, Cub 3204 with Blower & Simms Cab, Mowers (44",48",50"),Ford 2006 F550 turbo diesel 4x4 w/11' mason dump, 16' 10k Doolittle trailer, Southwestern enclosed trailer, Wright Stander RH 52", Better Outdoor Product Quick 32" WB mower, and more !! | |
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04-18-2008, 05:23 PM
|
#10 (permalink)
| | Senior Member
Status: Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eastern MA
Posts: 2,063
Points: 0 | Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneCowboy Trade it in, get a bigger/longer one (used or new, not much difference unless it's totally beat up) and move on.
too much time already spent on it. | Geez LC!  You must think I've got your kinda money!!!
Dougster  | | | |
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