Clutch action - Machine Underground -Tractor & Commercial Equipment Discussion Forum

Mickey · 11-26-2007, 07:55 PM

Was using the tractor yesterday and noticed the clutch not seeming to be acting normal. Normally the clutch seems normal enough to not raise any concern. Yesterday it seems like clutch wasn't engaging until almost completely released. After some use and tractor getting warmed up, clutch action seems closer to normal.

Trying to think why the clutch appeared to not be acting normal. Weather is cool, about 40°, tractor is stored in a machine shed. Tractor has PowerShift and the design uses an independent clutch for each gear. These clutches are controlled hydraulically within the trans. Was the main clutch really slipping? Why the apparent change after some use and tractor getting warmed up? Could it be due to the cold the trans hyd wasn't working normally?

Any ideas? Mark, what say Ye?

**mark777** · 11-26-2007, 09:40 PM

Yeah Mickey, I may be able to help…or offer a couple of suggestions.

Help me familiarize myself to your steering box….do you see where I’m going with this?

On many models you can detach the pitman arm from the draglink, unbolt the steering box and slide the whole assembly through the dash grommet maybe 12“. You should immediately spot two long, small diameter springs that hook to bell housing pins, and from there to the Throw out bearing cradle (which produces smooth even pressure on the input shat). If one spring is weak, broken, missing or both are badly worn…or one of the bell housing pins are broken, and there is no place to secure one of the springs - this will most definitely bind the return travel and replicate symptoms of a worn clutch. The whole process is about an hour when everything goes according to plan. And should the cast case pins be broken…no biggie. You can simply drill the case from the outside with a ¼“ bit, install and ¼“ x 20 bolt, nut from the back side (inside)…and presto New spring retainer... (And no dreaded splitting of your tractor).

Try this first if you havent already, it's the simplest and most overlooked maintenance steps that can create your symptoms..Remove the steering brakes, clutch pedal pivot rod. When the ‘O’ rings are badly worn, and the assembly is less the weather proof, the shaft lubrication dries out and the clutch pedal is the first to drag on it’s axis. For sure, enough to impede the pedal return spring function. Disassemble and clean gently with emery cloth…reassemble with new O rings, lube liberally and good to go.

What'cha think??

**mark777** · 11-26-2007, 09:46 PM

Mickey,

I believe you have the same PDF parts book as mine on the F24-FX24? If you do, on page 75 (parts diagram 17492) it shows the springs, T/O bearing, cradle and shaft assembly. It also indicates that your steering box, should it become necessary to explore, will remove by my previous suggestion above.

Good hunting and keep us informed,

Mark

Mickey · 11-27-2007, 12:29 AM

Mark, my machine has PS but from looking at the parts book it looks like it mounts to the bellhousing sim to a manual steering gear box.

The action I felt wasn't like a sticking throwout bearing housing. Pressing on the peddle was as smooth as always. Just felt like the clutch disk wasn't making contact with the flywheel and pressure plate or slipping badly until peddle almost completely released, last inch. That's is why I was wondering if instead of the main clutch slipping, the hyd and gear clutches not working as intended. (see pg 17497) As I said previously, after the tractor had been running for some time and warmed up, clutch action was much improved.

May need to talk to Ernie and see if he can shed some light on it.

**mark777** · 11-27-2007, 11:21 AM

Yeah...Ernie may have the answer.

Still, IMO the clutch friction disk normally gives the owner lots of advanced notice when it's beginning to wear thin.

As you are well aware, the power-shift pumps are notoriously durable and only subject to sluggish operation when the hy-trans fluid is fairly contaminated...so it leads me to believe it's a static or mechanical interference problem vs. clutch wear.
I know you well enough that you've checked the 1/2"-3/4" free play on the clutch travel adjustment rod...so I'm hoping it's something simple.

I can't remember for sure, but some years ago, it might have been Ernie that told me how frequent the cast pins break inside the bell housing....and also the quick and permanent fix.

Let me know will ya'?

Mark

Mickey · 11-27-2007, 02:07 PM

Definately free play on the clutch linkage. Like you say, a thin clutch disks let you know ahead of time and that is why I'm questioning this as the source of the problem. Never noticed before and improved some when tractor warmed up. With tractor having less than 1200 hrs on it I question if it is the clutch disk being worn out. With the powershift I'm sure the tractor has seen a lot of shifting without the use of the clutch. I have zero experience with the power shift other than knowing it is done hyd with clutch packs internally so that came to mind of the possibility of slugish operation during the colder months.

Being winter time and no heated area to work on the machine, it will be spring before I undertake anything. I'll keep watch and see what happens. If it turns out it's like you suggested, I now know how "easy" it is to get access to the clutch area.

Thanks for the inputs. Will definately follow up on this thread when I get it resolved.